Burton-in-Lonsdale is a handsome stone-built village with history in its name – Burton being Anglo-Saxon for “Fortified Farmstead” or “Farm by the Fort”, Lonsdale including the Viking word (dal) for “Valley”. The fort may have been the Motte-and-Bailey built by the Normans; actually there are two Baileys (fortified enclosures), a big square one to the west, a smaller half-moon shaped one to the south.

The Motte-and-Bailey are at the top of the village: walk gently uphill on the High Street past the church, and along with a high stone wall on your left. After a little while you’ll come to an iron gate in the wall, leading to steps up to the Motte. From the top, a short steep climb up the sheep-nibbled grass, there is a fascinating and beautiful historical view all around; the Motte itself is like a tiny volcano with a circular wall of earth, once topped by a ring of stakes. The two Baileys are clearly visible below, and as the photo shows, there’s a lovely view across the village to the Yorkshire Dales in the distance. The church spire can be seen for miles around.

Walk back to the church, and take the little lane down the hill to the river. Once you’ve crossed the river, you soon come to a crossroads before the road climbs out of the valley. Turn right on to the small lane and walk upstream beside the river. There is a path that continues through the Greta Woods, past Greeta House (it seems the spelling varies) and on up. There is the lovely sound of running water, and dappled light in the woods. Small old quarries are full of ferns and liverworts. At the top, keeping right, you can emerge through a gate into a large steep field of lush grass: the river is far below on your right, with the church spire peeping out from the trees across the river. An ancient grassed-over cart-track runs straight ahead. Follow it until you come to a fence and the corner of a wood. Don’t cross the fence, but descend the grassy slope to the river. At the bottom is a wide flat area that it seems the Scouts use for camps. Turn right and follow the path downstream back to Greta Woods, and return to the village.